Christmas is for Children

Christmas Eve we visited the Custom House Museum and the Little White House, where President Truman spent time when he was in office.  The kids took the Conch Train ride to get an overview of the city and its history, then we had a Christmas Eve dinner buffet at Casa Marina, a Flagler hotel built when he was developing the overseas railroad and the Florida tourism industry.  Even though we were stuffed, we took a ghost tour then moved back to base to get to sleep before Santa came.

Christmas morning our 4 sweeties came to the boat to see if Santa had visited.  Since all of us were darn near perfect this year, there was no coal in any stocking.  We had funfetti pancakes (Christine loves funfetti cake and frosting, so we couldn't resist when we found funfetti pancake mix) and eggs cooked to order by John while Matthew grilled sausage.  The babies got John 2 shirts and 2 hats embroidered with the tank battalion he was in for 17 years and commanded for 6 years and which no longer exists:

The kids visited and snorkeled at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park then came back to snorkel on base  while we joined a potluck Christmas dinner at the marina.  On the 26th we all went to the East Martello Museum, a pre-Civil War Fort.  While local history and art are featured, we were all curious about Robert, the haunted doll.  We also took pictures for next year's Christmas card:

We took them to the Truman Annex, another part of the Naval Air Station, to see some World War I fortifications.  The ground is so contaminated that people shouldn't be there, so they use "organic lawn care" and the goats and lizards coexist peacefully:

We went back to Boca Chica and the Young'uns tried paddleboarding then decided they like kayaking better:

Later, Mary and Christine read on the beach while John used fabric softener on the lines (ropes) and Matthew, Sarah and Benj snorkeled. We took a picture to send to our friend, Memo, who had his mother bring Hard Rock Cafe Istanbul shirts for our 4:

 On the 27th, we had lunch at the Square Grouper, mile marker 22.5 (you should try it!) then Christine and Matthew headed home while Mary, John, Sarah, and Benj traveled to the Everglades.  We saw lots of alligators before moving to Homestead Air Reserve Base to spend the night:

After Sarah and Mary won a couple of euchre games, we went to bed to be ready for the next day's adventures.  We went to Flamingo Visitor Center to see manatee:

We also saw roseate spoonbills.  As Benj kept proclaiming, "They're so pink!"  Sarah and Benj walked further on a path looking for flamingos and instead saw a diamondback rattler.  After recovering, they snorkeled at John Pennekamp State Park then we had dinner at Smugggler's Cove and headed back to the boat and to bed.

Sarah had check-out dives the next 2 days.  She took scuba classes in Boston, but was not excited about jumping into 40 degree water to complete her certification so scheduled her final activities here.  Benj accompanied her and she passed easily and they both enjoyed the trips to the reef.

New Year's Eve we had to get up early to catch the ferry to Dry Tortugas National Park.  Mary and Benjer had colds (we love you anyway, Sarah!) so rested on the trip:

Loggerhead Light:

 Fort Jefferson, which never saw battle but served as a military prison during the Civil War, its most well-known resident Dr. Samuel Mudd, who treated John Wilkes Booth's broken leg:

A frigate bird:

 We had a tour of the fort:

Then Benj and Sarah snorkeled while Mary read and enjoyed the sunshine and John further explored the fort:

We had dinner at Jimmy Buffet's first Margaritaville, then saw the new Sherlock Holmes movie, which we all enjoyed.  Walking back to the boat, Benj pointed out this sea creature:

After a long internet search, Benj and Sarah called to us (we'd gone to bed) that it appears to be a Spotted Sea Hare.  It seems too graceful and beautiful to be a sea slug.

Happy New Year!  We went to the house Hemingway lived in during his Key West years.  We think Benj and Sarah may have been more interested in the 6 toed cats, but who are we to question a biostatistician and a laywer?!  This kitty obviousy doesn't care that the sign says "please do not sit on the furniture":

We went to Mallory Square for the sunset ceremony and got to see the performing cats.  This kitty jumped through fire:

Our last evening together:

On Monday, January 2, 2012, John took Benj and Sarah to the airport at 6:30 am for their flight home to Boston.

Our kids are here!

Thursday, 12/22, Benj and Sarah, after arriving late in Atlanta and having to race for their connecting flight, flew into Key West early, calling to announce they'd landed just as we were leaving Boca Chica Key to pick them up.  By the time we parked and they retrieved their luggage, the timing was fine ("Where are you?  We're at the luggage carousel, where are you?  We're outside.  Outside where?")  Good thing it's a small airport-we wanted those greeting hugs!  We took them to Mallory Square for the sunset ceremony.  We arrived too late to see the performing cats, so will have to return another evening:

Benj pulled out his i-phone, said Caroline's sounded good for dinner and off we went.  It was good and we ate then headed for the base and moved Benj and Sarah on the boat for one night.  When all 4 are here, they'll have a room on base, then we'll move Benj and Sarah back to the boat for the rest of their stay.

Friday Sarah and Benj ran while John went into town to get the mail and was told the problem was fixed and after today all of our mail will be sent to the base.  Mary made lunch then Sarah and Benj took the dinghy out.

We went to Trumbo Point, another of the satellite bases to get room keys and check the kids into their room then to Sigsbee to buy discount tickets for some of the sites we want to visit.  We walked around the old harbor again, while keeping tabs on Matthew and Christine's progress via text and phone messages.

Watch out for sponge man!

The lobster/crab pot floats decorating this tree look non-threatening, just try boating through them!

We wandered through the turtle museum and walked the waterfront then moved Benj and Sarah into the room the 4 would share.  When Christine and Matthew arrived, we helped them move their belongings into the room then took the starving travelers to dinner.  Where to eat?  The boys checking "Yelp" on their phones:



They agreed on a seafood place that turned out to be a cart that closed as we arrived. We wandered further and had dinner at Schooner's Wharf on the old waterfront:

Then looked for a place that served key lime pie dipped in chocolate & on a stick. Who knew?!

Back on the base, Mary played a hand of Nacho Loco with Matthew, Benj and Christine while Sarah showered then Sarah finished Mary's game (they won) and Mary and John went to the boat and to bed.

Our home for the holidays

It's warm here and we love it.

Sunday,  December 11, John hopped on his bike to ride off base and check on the progress of the bike path from here to the city of Key West.  When we visited in February, we thought the trail would be completed by now.  No such luck, he had to ride along the Overseas Highway.  We'll rent a car to make traveling into town safer and more convenient.  John rode 23 miles exploring possible routes to town, the commissary, etc. then rode 10 more miles with Mary on base.  We also took a brisk 30 minute walk.  This base is pretty utilitarian, no path along the water, historic forts or museum so we'll probably buy a bike rack so we can drive someplace pretty for our rides and will probably take walks in town, also.  There are pretty constant flights of F-18s and we saw C-130s dropping paratroopers.

An F-18 Hornet:

Monday we walked again and Mary rode 5 miles, John 10.  We added a P-3 Orion and some F-5's to our aircraft sightings.  We rode our bikes to the base post office to pick up the mail Jo had sent.  We sure collect a lot of junk in a month-and Jo hadn't forwarded catalogs! We worked on cleaning the boat for our much-anticipated company-all 4 kids will be here for Christmas! John scrubbed the deck carpets and the deck while Mary washed the deck seating and the dash-including all the crud that gathers along the windshield from rain.  Her new hip allowed her to crawl right up to the window-it's cleaner than it's been since the boat was new!

P-3 Orion:

Tuesday we spotted a mysterious white object floating in the sky when we took our walk.  Fat Albert is a blimp that is tethered over Cudjoe Key.  There are 2 different ones-one is used for drug interdiction, the other transmits to Cuba.  We now have a rental car.  Enterprise has a good thing going with their policy of picking you up to take you to their office.  We can't remember ever using that company before, but have taken advantage of that policy all 3 times we've rented cars during this trip.  We won't need to buy a bike rack-they had no economy cars so we have a Jeep Compass and the bikes fit in the back.  We went to Turtle Kraal, a restaurant in the old turtle factory, where they used to can turtle soup before the turtles became protected.  It was our favorite place to eat the 2 other times we visited Key West, but they've changed their menu drastically and are more a southern smoke/barbecue place now.  Rather than have a distinctive sauce, they smoke the meat then bring 6 different sauces to the table. We get much better barbecue when we visit Matthew and Christine in Charlotte. We had a very windy bike ride around base.  There's one place on the road where you have to stop and look for low-flying aircraft, as you are crossing the runway approach.  There are often planes taking off or landing, so we have to wait, hands over ears, for them to pass.

Fat Albert:

Wednesday we had another windy bike ride then drove to Sigsbee, where the commissary and px are located.  Naval Air Station Key West consists of several different sites.  We then drove a few keys past Boca Chica to look at bike trails.  There are some nice ones we look forward to exploring. There is no fresh water available in the Keys, so a water pipe runs along the bridges and along the road all the way from the mainland. Here is a picture of the pipe along one of the old bridges:

Thursday we prepared Christmas cards and pulled the little Christmas tree out from under the seat and decorated it.  The US Postal Service did not get our forwarding address correct, even though we had our postmaster in Shepherd complete it for us, as it didn't present correctly when we tried on-line and the postal employee at the 1-800 number couldn't get it to go into the system, either. Consequently, we have to drive into town to the main post office to get our mail as well as check at the post office on base. We decided to go to Margaritaville, the site of the first of Jimmy Buffet's restaurant chain, but it was closed for their Christmas party so we had to go to Sloppy Joe's, where Hemingway used to hang out.  Yes, it's a tough life, but we're hanging in there! After dinner, we went to Mallory Square for the sunset ceremony.  Even the cacophony of the performers and vendors does not detract from the beauty of the sunset:

Friday we drove as far as Marathon to look at bike trails and the old Bahia Honda bridge, which was the biggest challenge for Flagler's crews during construction of the overseas railroad, as the water is very deep.  When the auto road was constructed, this bridge was too narrow to use the railroad bed, so the automobile road  was built above the supports!  John drove on this bridge in 1972 and he says it was quite exciting.  One of our guide books describes it as like driving your car on a roller coaster.  Alas, there is now a newer, tamer bridge.

There are several trainers at the base now, the white and orange 2-seater prop jobs like we see at Pensacola.  We tried the Square Grouper at mile marker 22.2 for lunch.  It had been recommended by someone in the marina and was excellent.  We went back into Key West for those "cheeseburgers in paradise" at Margaritaville then to Mallory Square for the sunset.

The old "roller coaster" bridge:

Saturday we added to our plane-spotting list with some 5-16's, 5-15's, and a C-17 while walking and biking.  John went to the commissary, as it's closed Sunday and Monday.

Sunday we moved the bikes to the Truman Annex, another part of the naval air station.  It's right in town and close to a good bike path along the ocean.  After dark we walked along the Bight (old docks) to the Christmas tree decorated with lobster pot floats to hear a children's musical group from Ft. Lauderdale play Christmas music.  Not quite the Dow Gardens Christmas walk-through, but nice.

Monday we biked along the ocean and walked along Duval Street.  We dropped John's bike off for repair since, in spite of paying to have 2 new tubes installed in Tarpon Springs, both tires are flat every morning.  There's also an annoying clicking noise that we hope they can eliminate.

There are a lot of chickens wandering around.  When cock fighting was outlawed, the chickens were just released and their descendants wander freely.  Crowing is common background noise:

Tuesday we did laundry and John grilled chicken breasts and steak.   We picked up John's bike then drove back to the old harbor to try another recommended restaurant-Dante's.  It seems the economy has badly affected the restaurants here.  Dante's now has a limited menu and uninspired food.  Matthew and Christine are here such a short time that we don't want to waste time and money in mediocre restaurants.

Wednesday we rode the bike trail all the way to the airport and checked out East Martello, the pre-Civil War fort that now houses the museum where Robert, the haunted doll, resides.  We'll go in when the kids are here. Mary wrapped John's Christmas gifts and his stocking now bulges suspiciously.

Thursday John arose early and biked all the way around Key West, following the bike path around past the airport and the old harbor and back to the Truman Annex.  Mary did some paper (computer) work.  John wrapped Mary's presents and went back into town for stocking stuffers. We set out the little nativity set John's sister Jo gave us and the Year Without a Santa Claus figures Theresa gave Mary a few years ago.  We put a small string of lights on the silk flower arrangement and Mary Frances looks very Christmasy for the kids' visit.  Benj and Sarah are running to catch their connecting flight in Atlanta and Matthew and Christine are packing the car to begin their drive. We can't wait for them to arrive!

Crab pot, crab pot, crab pot, TURTLE!

On the way to Boca Chica Marina, our home for at least the next month, there were once again many crab pots.  Mary spotted a float that was brown and more oblong shaped than usual.  Every time she tried to point it out to John, it disappeared below the surface in the chop.  John finally saw it as it surfaced next to the boat.  It was a turtle.

Seven Mile Bridge:  The open part is the old bridge, which is now a fishing pier. There is a crab pot float in the foreground.

An F-18 air escort as we approach the marina:

Mangroves on the way in:

Another hand pump-out.  Think this is part of the military fitness program?

Our new home:

Crab Pots and Keys

We left Sanibel Island at 7:10 am and were at Marathon by 3 pm.  We are in the Keys!!!! Tomorrow we'll call Boca Chica Marina and see if we can come early, as our reservations start 12/15.  We saw over a thousand crab pots today.  Watching for them and dodging them makes for a very tiring day.

An evening shot of Mary Frances at Marathon:

Christmas in a marina:

Tarpon Springs, Anna Maria Island, and Sanibel Island

Tarpon Springs has been one of our favorite stops.  We stayed at Turtle Cove, a fairly new marina close to restaurants, shops and the bike trail. The kind of bike trail Mary likes-on an old railroad grade, so there are no hills.

Mary Frances at Turtle Cove Marina:

There are many Greek restaurants in Tarpon Springs and we took advantage.  Saturday we had gyros for lunch-sausage for John, pork for Mary, accompanied by a Greek salad and Avgolemono (Chicken lemon) soup.  Sunday's dinner was Pastitso (Greek style lasagna with layers of macaroni and ground beef topped with tomato and cream sauce), Mousaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes and ground beef topped with cream and tomato sauce), Dolmades (seasoned ground beef and rice wrapped in grape leaves topped with egg lemon sauce), Gyro (seasoned lamb and beef), and Spanakopita (spinach pie). YUM!

Can you imagine a more perfect bike trail-and in December!

We rode 13 miles and ended up back at Spring Bayou to watch the manatees for an hour.

We left at 7:20 Monday morning, December 5.  We wove our way through the markers out of the Anclote river and back into the intracoastal waterway. We'd not seen a flock of roosting pelicans before:

We stopped at Anna Maria Island because Suki and Hal live here during the winter.  The dock behind our boat backed up to a mangrove swamp.  This osprey was trying to settle in, but grew tired of our conversation and left for a quieter resting place.

Hal, bearing the gift of 2 bottles of delicious Michigan wine, rode his bike to visit while John washed the salt off the boat.  We impolitely spent some of Hal's visit on the phone, as we had realized we hadn't had a bank withdrawal for propane, so John called Jo and asked her to check our propane tank.  It read empty, so John called the company.  They were evidently basing their planned fills for how often we've needed it in the past.  Since we burn wood and propane in a combination furnace, we don't use very much propane.  Even though we had explained to them that we are not burning wood this year, so wanted them to check and fill it regularly, something hadn't sunk in.  Jo graciously agreed to go back to our house to meet the delivery man as, when he saw the tank was empty, he turned it off and wanted to check the rest of our appliances as he thought we must have a leak to use so much more propane than in the past.  We don't have any appliances that feed off that tank.  They restarted the furnace and all is well, after only about 15 phone calls. Thank you so much, Jo. We shudder to think what may have happened with no heat in the house in a Michigan December.

Mary Frances at Anna Maria Island:

When Suki returned from having some work done on the car, she and Hal picked us up and took us on a tour of the island.  We certainly understand why they choose to spend time there!  We had dinner at their favorite restaurant and enjoyed another pretty sunset:

After dinner, we went to Joe and Barb's house.  Joe, John, and Hal were all in the same motorcycle club many years ago.  Barb and Joe sold John the 10 acres on Loomis Road that we used for a down payment on our house.

We were up early the next morning, as we want to keep moving so our kids don't arrive in Key West for Christmas before we do.  We traveled 100 miles on the intracoastal and arrived at Sanibel Island at 3:30.

The intracoastal is varied through here, from swamps to big cities to large homes.  Here's Mary's favorite site along the way:

(Hey, Sara, I'm putting one of these on my Christmas list, how about you?)

Even though our boat isn't very tall (13 feet with the antenna down) there are still some bridges with such low clearance that we have to request an opening:

There are many manatee protection signs along this section of the the intracoastal.  We saw some more dolphins today, but no manatees. Some of the signs say "Manatee Zone Idle Speed No Wake" others "Slow Speed Minimum Wake" and there's "25 MPH Within Channel, Idle Speed 100 Feet Out of Channel".  The signs also make good platforms for osprey nests:

Gasparilla Rear Range Light:

One of the reasons we chose Sanibel Island was a wish to reconnect with Vickie and Paul, who did the loop in their SeaRay in 2008-2009.  We met Vickie at the spring loopers' rendesvous we attended in Charleston in 2008.  We met Paul when they stopped in Mackinaw City while doing the loop.  We didn't have much time with them, as John was still working so we were only in Mackinaw for the weekend.  They drove from their home in Cape Coral and we had dinner together.  It was wonderful to see them:

Sanibel Light-the keeper's house is on stilts:

Because of the island's orientation, the tide washes a lot of seashells and sea creatures onto Sanibel beaches:

We picked up some shells today and rode 15 1/2 miles along some of the island's many bike trails.  Another sign we don't see in Michigan:

Just in case you're concerned that Santa won't be able to visit us because there's no snow for his reindeer: 

We are at Sanibel Marina and every morning at 7 AM they deliver blueberry muffins and a paper.

Hudson and Tarpon Springs

Everyone we left Carrabelle with traveled safely across the Gulf and docked in either Hudson or Clearwater.  Mary and John on Passport, Kerm and Chris on Southern Belle, and Maureen and Peter on Duddon Pilot arrived at Hudson at 4:45 am, 12 hours after we did.  We thought that their overnight passage would have been gentler than ours, as they stayed closer to shore, but they had to deal with waves and many crabpots.  We are all glad to have that experience behind us.

Mary Frances at Hudson:

Chris and Kerm on Southern Belle crossed their wake (finished the loop) here:

It's nice to know people who are familiar with the area, as you learn the best places to eat and where to watch the sunset:

We left Hudson Saturday, December 3, at about 7 am, on a falling tide.  We followed the long channel through a seagrass area out to deeper water and turned left.  Water was not bad until toward the end of our run, when a small chop developed.  We wouldn't have even felt it if we hadn't had to keep avoiding crab pots, so had to turn into and out of the waves.  After about an hour, we passed Anclote Key and turned into Tarpon Springs.

Anclote Key Light:

Greek sponge divers came to Tarpon Springs in the early 1900's.  The Greek food is wonderful and yes, sponge diving is still big business.

Not only are they sorting sponges on the boat, but look at all the bags of sponges on the dock:

A tribute to sponge divers.  There are sponges on the upper deck of the boat behind John.  Will we become accustomed to seeing Christmas decorations while wearing shorts?  We'll try hard!

Doesn't look very well balanced!

At the end of our walk, we went to Spring Bayou to see manatee. We saw about a dozen.

There is an actual bike trail here, so we're off for a ride.